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Ned Fehally holds the swing on the crux section of the legendary Careless Torque, (Font 8a or V11), Stanage Plantation, Peak District UK.
Photo by Richie Patterson / Wild Country
Watch the video here of Ned Feehally, the current British Bouldering Champion, making a rare ascent of Careless Torque (Font 8a), on a blustery and cool day in September 2009. Feehally, who did the 6th, 7th or even 8th ascent of this awesome three star highball, actually managed to do the bottom crux section six times (which is the 8a bit) before unlocking the upper, 7b+ arête to claim another ascent.
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Paige Claassen making quick work of The Web (5.13b), in Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. Photo by Andy Mann / AndyMann.com
Paige Claassen was raised amidst the snowy peaks of the Rocky Mountains and the rough granite pillars of Lumpy Ridge. Still, the 19-year-old CU-Boulder sophomore got her start on plastic. (“My dad tried to get me into other sports, and I sucked at everything,” she says. Read more.
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FRY DAYS
Adventures in Utah’s Remote, desolate, and radioactive Fry Canyon
Fry Canyon, a tributary of the larger White Canyon, sits 300 miles southeast of Salt Lake City in San Juan County, a short drive from Lake Powell. It’s a slot canyon, 20 feet wide and 150 feet tall in points, with depths upwards of 500 feet in the broader sections.
Shown here Adam Holmes reflects on Pier 49 (V5) at the Fry Canyon Boulders.
Photo by Andrew Burr / AndrewBurr.com
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Rent - $400
Home woody - $200
Subscription to Urban Climber - $25
Being so pumped you can hardly turn the pages... Priceless!
Photo by Alex M. Brady / flickr.com/alex-bradyphoto
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Photo: by Andrew Burr / andrewburr.com
Luke Kretschmer knocks on Wisconsin Wood (V7), Zero Point Area, Ibex Utah. See more great photos in Urban Climber Mag's #29 - May 2009
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Road Trippin' with Paul Robinson - Part 5
Photo by Joel Robinson
It has been a long and crazy week full of many exciting adventures. Paul tried Dreamcatcher various times and was finally able to do the entire thing in 2 falls with the humid, hot temperatures relentlessly working against him. Singularity was deemed impossible due to the weather conditions so Paul tried some other classic lines in Squamish when he wasn't working Dreamcatcher. He completed When Harry Met Sally, Sharma's Jump, The Pain Below and Encore une fouis.
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Photo: Meredith Rike
Escape from New York - Part 1
My boyfriend and I were your typical young "urban climbers", more or less: living in Brooklyn, working in Manhattan, staying out too late on the weekends and trying to catch as many hours outdoors at the crag as we could. Nevertheless, we were never really that satisfied. One day, as we sat rehashing all the unpleasant details of our respective days (pushy commuters, long work hours, train problems, etc.), I had an idea: why didn’t we leave?
Shown here: Kevin Riley bouldering some V-easies on the perfect, bulbous sandstone of the Stone Fort, Chattanooga, TN.
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Photo: Andrew Kornylak / AkornPhoto.com
The Legend of Litz and the Lilly Boulders
Let me tell you about the day I met James Litz. For two years, I’d made the Lilly Boulders, a collection of 25 sandstone blocs in Tennessee’s Obed Wild and Scenic River (a national park), my personal playground.Then one day, a gangly 125-pound high school kid from Kingsport, Tennessee, strolled into the Park Visitor Center...
Shown here: Litz does the math on Chinese Arithmetic (V13) and, as usual, finds the solution.
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Photo: Damon Corso / www.petrala.com
FIRSTBURN - #27 > FEBRUARY 2009/MARCH 2009
Natasha Barnes bought her ticket in advance for this classic Yosemite thrill ride. Barnes nabbing the 5th female ascent of Thriller (V10), Yosmeite National Park, California.
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Photo: Andrew Burr / andrewburr.com
Cuba: Fear Me, Fear Me Not
Cuba. This one small island nation stirs up a distinct mental picture in nearly everyone’s mind. We’ve all heard the stories, but it seems as though nobody has actually been there. It’s like the sweet forbidden fruit, so close (only 90 miles from Florida) and yet so far away. For Americans, there is one consistent theme in all discussions about traveling to Cuba: Fear. Read more.
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Photo: John Evans / JohnEvansPhoto.com
THE SOUND OF ROC TRIP Feature article from UCMAG #25 - OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2008
Words by Justin Roth - What is Roc Trip? Simply, it’s a gathering where climbers from many countries and even continents come together to explore a climbing area, and the members of the Petzl team converge to battle it out for the Ultimate Route (or routes, as the case may be in Zillertal, Austria, there were more than a half dozen Ultimates up for grabs). READ MORE.
Shown here: The Alpine scenery of Sundergrun in all its glory as some Roc Trippers work the start of Moonwalk (V6/7).
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Photo: Tobias MacPhee / tobiasmacphee.com
Inside the 2009 SCS Nationals
Amidst a soggy evening snowstorm on Sunday, January 25, just outside Salt Lake City, the Momentum climbing gym bustled with energy a crowd of hundreds gathered to witness America's top climbers vie for the 2009 SCS Adult National Championship. Shown here: Dave Graham on the way to a second place finish. Read more
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Photo: Sean Naugle / blackowlmedia.com
Austrian strong man, Bernd Zeugswetter, scoring the first ascent of the brilliant, and highball, Egret Arete, (V10 R/X) at the Lizard's Mouth near Santa Barbara, California. Bernd first spotted the toprope problem in 2006 as one of the main stand-out features at Lizard's Mouth and finally sent the tall problem on December 5th, 2008. For more info read the report by Paul Dusatko at sbbouldering.com
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Photo: Lucas Marshall / lucasmarshall.com
Chris Rolling with an early morning flash of The Mud, the Blood, and the Beer. Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas. Canon 20D. 46mm/ 1/800th/ f/4/ ISO 100
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FIRST BURN #26 > DECEMBER 2008/JANUARY 2009
AFTER TEN TRIPS AND COUNTLESS ATTEMPTS, BEN RANDOLPH FINALLY SNAGS THE LAST MOVE ON TGV (5.13C), INDUSTRIAL WALL, ELDORADO SPRINGS, COLORADO.
PHOTO: ANDY MANN
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Photo: Lucas Marshall / lucasmarshall.com
Chris Rolling on Sonic Youth the signature 5.13a on the New River Wall in Clear Creek Canyon. It's hard to imagine that this popular sport route was aided over 40 years ago by Jim Logan, long before the canyon above Golden, Colorado, had any climber traffic.
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Lee Cujes on the perfect limestone of Blockage Violet (5.12), Ceüse, France. Marten Blumen won the Grand Prize at the 2008 Banff Mountain Photography Competition for his Rim Lit Climber shot taken at Ceüse, France. He is known for his capacity and devotion to produce quality images in tough conditions. Check out more photos by Marten Blumen here.
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A leap into new possibilities.
When British super-climber “Strong” Steve McClure arrived at the first annual Bornholm Climbing & Deepwater Festival in Denmark, he knew nothing about the little granite island where the venue took place. Now he knows the value of the Danish currency (he shared first place in the DWS comp with Danish mega-talent Robin Vickery), the quality of the granite boulders, and the feeling of hitting Lake Opal’s waters from eleven meters up. Photo: Martin Paldan / martinpaldan.com
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Evening slab slapping on Arkansas's bullet sandstone during the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, Spetember, 2008. Photo info: Canon 5D, Sigma 24-70 f/2.8. Nikon SB-28 fired via Pocketwizards. ISO 640 / f/2.8 / 1/40th
Photo: Lucas Marshall / LucasMarshall.com
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Jason Kehl sending the steep Sharma Arete (V10), Tramway Boulders, Calofornia Photo: DAMON CORSO / www.petrala.com and Jacinda Hunter on The Wind Below (V8), Joe's Valley, Utah.
Photo: RYAN WEDEMEYER / ryanwedemeyer.smugmug.com
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Australian mad genius of climbing Ben Cossey piecing together one of the super-long roof problems (take your pick: Cave Woman, V12; Cave Rave, V13; Eve Réve, V14; Wheel of Life, V16) in the Grampians’ Hollow Mountain Cave, Australia.
Photo: Justin Roth
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Matt Lloyd takes an early lap on Super Crack of the Denver, 5.10+, at 6 in the morn. To descend this classic brick crack safely you must rappel from the penthouse railing and clean up before rush hour. UC Issue #14. Photo: Daniel Gambino
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Joe Kinder styles the Millennium Boulder classic Ghost Dance (V6V9 dependng on where you start), Matthew Winters Park, near Morrison Colorado.
Photo: Brian Solano
www.bsproductions.us
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Alan Moore climbing a rare Mammut urbanensus, in Technicolor. UC Issue #20.
Photo: Jacob Stern
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Eliminating the sit-start, Magdalyn Wagner snags the sloper on Shingles Standup on the highly textured and aptly named Tiger Stripe Boulder. From the article Big Little Contrast, UC Photo Annual 2007.
Photo: Jansen Gunderson
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Daniel Woods loving the horizontal pleasures of Coeur de Lyon (V14). Hueco Tanks, Texas. UC Issue #17.
Photo: Alex Messenger
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Martin Oberweger gets one over on Jumping Jack Flash (7c). Ewige Jagdgründe. Zillertal, Austria. UC Issue #20.
Photo: Bernardo Giménez
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Landon Bassett finding shelter, and a new project, in the “Hobo Cave”. Denver, Colorado. UC Issue #19.
Photo: Tony Czech and Mike Sakas
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Johnny Landry en route to Flagstaff. From the article Hobouldering, UC #11.
Photo: Aaron Black
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Chris Sharma on the FA of the Dreamcatcher 5.14d, Squamish, BC
Photo by Luke Laeser
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Party below the dam at the 2008 New River Rendezvous, WV
Photo by Lee Means
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Pyromania,The Needles, California
Photo by Nathaniel Walker
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The Orb (V8) Rocktown GA
Photo by Luke Laeser
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Yosmeite Valley, California
Photo by Nathaniel Walker
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Climbing in Tuolumne Meadows
Photo by Nathaniel Walker
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Snow at the Bridger Jacks, Indian Creek, Utah
Photo by Nathaniel Walker
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Sunset at Joshua Tree National Park, California
Photo by Nathaniel Walker
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The Summit of El Capitan, Yosmeite, California
Photo by Nathaniel Walker
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Climber at the Cat Wall, Indian Creek, Utah
Photo by Nathaniel Walker
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Sunrise at the City of Rocks, Idaho
Photo by Nathaniel Walker
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Brendan Nicholson having it all to himself in Yosemite National Park, CA. UC Issue #21
Photo: Tim Kemple
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Funny thing about climbers.... they will climb everything...
Photo: DAMON CORSO
www.petrala.com
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Capturing action with the Holga is purely a matter of luck. Since you are the camera's motor, you have to wind the film, set up, focus and make those one or two shots really count. From the article New Zealand and The Art of Unphotography, UC #12.
Photo: Jesse Arneson
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Christina Pilo sandstone grippin' on an unknown V6 roof in the magical forest of Albarracín, Spain.
Photo: DAMON CORSO
www.petrala.com
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Summer is slipping away you'd better get after it!
Photo: DAMON CORSO
www.petrala.com
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UCMAG's PHOTOPOST
Upload to a grip of categories like: Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Buildering, Trad Climbing, Climber Art, Down For Life, Thursday Session, Meat Locker, The 411, Plastic Paradise ... you get the idea. Shown here: Isarna Pacher (aka UglyUglyDucky) boulders on an unknown V3 on the Homecoming Boulder at Rumbling Bald, North Carolina.
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Rob Pizem trying to hang the famous elephant skin of Fontainebleau, France.
Photo: Cory French
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Photo: Kevin Riley
Escape from New York - Part 2
We had been in Tennessee for several days at this point, exploring the many varied ways to climb rock in the Chattanooga area. After our day bouldering at Little Rock City and a much needed rest day, we headed straight out to the Tennessee Wall. The T-Wall is a convenient 30 minutes or so from Chattanooga, but far enough outside the city to feel remote. It features gorgeous views of the Tennessee River Gorge from the base of the crag, and even better views when you get up on a route. Shown here a climber works his way up the perfect splitter, Golden Locks, a canidate for one of the best 5.8s at T-Wall. Read part 1
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Klaus Isele of Austria snags the perfectest pocket in all of Australia. The climb: Klem Loskot's Rave Heart (V8), Hollow Mountain Cave, Grampians.
Photo: Justin Roth
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Lee Runyon contemplates the next move, adrift in a sea of holds at Red Barn Climbing (RBC) regarded by many as the premier rock climbing gym in Western New York and among the best in the Northeast. The 100 year old Red Barn, located on the Rochester Institute of Technology campus, is primarily a bouldering gym with 5000 square feet of climbing surface spread over three huge caves.
Photo by Jacquelyn Allen
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UCMAG's PHOTOPOST
Upload to a grip of categories like: Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Buildering, Trad Climbing, Climber Art, Down For Life, Thursday Session, Meat Locker, The 411, Plastic Paradise ... you get the idea.. it's all there. Shown here: UNCclimber has captured and morphed himself on the juggalicious Bookshelf Traverse at Grandmother Mountain, Bookshelf Boulder near Boone, North Carolina.
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