climber

  • HPMehall

    Read This: Redemption and Defeat on Washington Column

    "We got comfortable on our bivy ledge, and it was one of the most glorious evenings of my life. I’d stayed at this ledge once previously on a failed attempt of the route, and that night I never quite felt calm and at ease. For whatever reason this night was different. We stared at Half Dome, as it finally got some of the days last rays of sun: gray granite with black water streaks and hints of orange. I had the feeling I was exactly where I was supposed to be. Gene and I were proud, and we were on the heels of success. All we had above us was climbing, and we didn’t have to worry about the pains of hauling.÷

  • HPAmmon

    How Ammon McNeely Made An Unbelievably Fast Return From A Career-Ending Injury

    I stared up at the sandstone walls of the Kingfisher Tower outside of Moab, Utah, and felt sick with anxiety. I could faintly make out the speck of a man on the summit and knew it was Ammon McNeely. He was up there hobbling around on his surgically repaired foot (now laced with so many scars it looked like a relief map of canyon country). He carefully studied the cliff edges and exposure below, in search of the best spot to jump, but the wind was gusting, creating less-than-ideal conditions for flying. Deep down I suspected this would not deter him. “Fuck. Maybe I shouldn’t have helped him get up there,” I thought.

  • HPBlack

    Read This: Benighted In The Black Canyon

    Some walls are better to look at than to climb. The closer we get to the Painted Wall, the uglier it appears. In the Black Canyon guidebook, it is described as an overhanging scree field. In the last ten years I’ve been climbing in the canyon, it is the only wall I’ve regularly heard about sections of climbs falling off the wall. Yes, that’s right, a pitch of the climb literally coming undone from the wall, adding to the scree fields below.

  • HPMentorship

    The Mentorship Gap: What Climbing Gyms Can't Teach You

    The way we learn to climb has evolved. The was we mentor needs to change, too.

  • BuiltToLast

    Built to Last? The Hidden Dangers Of Climbing Bolts

    Two climbers headed up a two-pitch sport route on the Fire Wall, above Tonsai Beach on the Phra Nang Peninsula of Thailand. At the two-bolt anchor, the leader pulled up slack to belay his partner, and as an afterthought, he reached up to clip the first bolt of the next pitch as a redirect to belay his partner.

  • On his sixth expedition to China (2013), Libecki leads the third pitch of a big wall first ascent in the Western Kokshaal-Too, Tien Shan Mountains, while Ethan Pringle belays. Photo by Keith Ladzinski.

    Expaddiction

    Sixty feet up a shattered wall of basalt in the Arctic, I just hoped to find a place to set up my portaledge, out of the reach of polar bears. The rock—for lack of a better term—was shitty. But I was still headed up. A couple of soccer ball–size rocks crashed onto the talus to my left, exploding like small bombs. As I hammered in a knifeblade piton, a huge flake shattered like a plate of glass. The fragments sounded like ceramic tiles as they hit the talus below. I needed to find a way up this wall, but this line was death.

  • Claassen

    9 Months, 9 Countries: Claassen and Glassberg Debriefed

    Paige Claassen and Jon Glassberg spent nine months, from June 2013 through the end of March, traveling the world, climbing, and raising money and awareness for community-oriented nonprofits around the globe. We gave them about a week to settle in at home in Colorado and then asked them to tell us more about the trip.

  • MotivateHP

    How to Motivate

    Slogging up a snowfield, panting beneath a heavy pack, with a couple miles to the next camp. Flaming forearms on the rock, still three pitches from the summit. These moments are difficult to break through on your own—how do you keep a whole team moving? Even if you’re not an aspiring guide, keep these useful incentives in your head next time you or your partner starts struggling.

  • GuideHP

    The Guiding Life

    Swiss-French, slightly built, mellow, self-assured, and my neighbor on a flight home to Colorado, he wrote his name into my journal in Euro-cursive, with a phone number, too: Jean Pavillard.

  • Alex-Stasia-Cedar-Sufferfest-660

    Inside the Sufferest: Two World-Class Climbers. On Bikes.

    Cedar’s 18-minute film titled Sufferfest was selected to tour the world with the Banff Mountain Film Festival. Check banffcentre.ca for showing locations and dates. Or head to climbing.com/videos to view the film in five smaller episodes.

  • Golden Piton Awards 2013

    From the first 5.14d onsight to runout 5.13 traditional routes to a multitude of V-hard bouldering flashes, Climbing pays tribute to the most inspirational climbers, ascents, and routes of 2013 with the 12th annual Golden Piton Awards.

  • Matt-Segal-Air-China-Fall-1

    To Bolt or Not to Bolt

    I operate under a philosophy that routes don’t need to be repeated safely, so I don’t establish them that way. The joy in climbing routes like these is all my own, and I don’t always feel the need to equip routes with the greater community in mind. Some people might view my approach as reckless. I always try to have a minimalist approach to establishing new lines, but others place a higher importance on repeatability. To each his own—but it’s important to think through your bolting philosophy as a first ascensionist. Have a reason to place—or not place—each bolt.