 Emily Harrington: The Interview
By Andrew Tower courtesy of pimpinandcrimpin.com - Emily Harrington climbs hard inside and out. She’s a comp killin, climbing dynamo and will simply not stop crushing. We did get her to sit down and give us some answers about her life, what she’s doing, and how she might or might not want to be an assassin for the CIA.
 George Ullrich on a flash attempt of Gaia
Video by Dave Gill / SteepMedia.com - Gaia (E8 6c) is one of those routes we all know about. You’d be hard pressed to find many climbers that haven’t stumbled across the horrendous fall in the opening scene of Slackjaw Film's Hard Grit. It’s interesting reading people's thoughts on the internet and in magazines, about how video is directly affecting modern climbing. When is watching a video beta?
 COIN #26 - The Sharma Set
For as long as many of us have been climbing,
Chris Sharma has been the name synonymous
with pushing the limits of what’s humanly possible
in our sport. Think about it: The Mandala, Necessary Evil,
Realization, Dreamtime, Witness the fitness, The Es
Pontas Arch, Jumbo Love, and countless other classic
FAs and testpieces throughout the world.
 CONTENTS #26 > DECEMBER 2008/JANUARY 2009
FEATURES IN THIS ISSUE: Bouldering The Big Time - Las Vegas has problems and we’ve got the beta; Love & Reaction - Before, during, and after Chris Sharma’s historic first ascent of the world’s hardest route, Jumbo Love; The Rebirth of Rock Gardens - A local’s tour of the San Luis and Arkansas River Valleys in Colorado; Cuba: Fear Me, Fear Me Not - Rob Pizem and friends taste the sweet, forbidden fruit; DEPARTMENTS: Entourage - Loaded to blasting point; 411 - Lake Arco, a Nor’Easter, and 24 hours of Hell; Drive - Jonathan Siegrist and Colette McInerney ...
 STARTING HOLD - #26 > DECEMBER 2008/JANUARY 2009
Finding Forever - If deep down you think of yourself as a climber, that means at one point, somewhere, you got the notion that scaling rocks could fill a void in your life or otherwise offer satisfaction unsurpassed by any other activity. And, know it or not, that notion set the stage for the rest of your life.
 ENTOURAGE - #26 > DECEMBER 2008/JANUARY 2009
Andy Mann - Andy’s a Colorado boy. “What makes Colorado so special is that the climbing here is endless. Andrew Burr - The beginnings: Born on a planet far, far away, Kal-El was rocketed to Earth as an infant by his scientist father. Seth Robinson - Seth has been living in the urban sprawl of Las Vegas for nine years now. Phillip Benningfield - Phillip is the author of four bouldering guides to the “best damn state in the union, Colorado!” Mike Brumbaugh - Mike lives in Vail, CO with his wife Jennifer where he owns a ski and bike shop, Venture Sports.
Pure Chalk from Wild Country
1/02/09 - There’s more to chalk than meets the eye: and with the blending, baking, crushing and forming involved sometimes it can seem more like distilling whisky than making a simple white powder.
 MUSICIANS, THIS IS STARDOM CALLING
Folk, punk, rap, rock, pop, metal, country, soul, blues — whatever you’ve got, we’re opening our ears and arms. Whether you lay it down on your computer, a four-track recorder or in a professional studio, it makes no difference to us. Log on to urbanclimbermag.com's forums, where you can post up info and links to your band and your music in “Ear Candy”.
UCMAG's PHOTOPOST
Upload to a grip of categories like: Bouldering, Sport Climbing, Buildering, Trad Climbing, Climber Art, Down For Life, Thursday Session, Meat Locker, The 411, Plastic Paradise ... you get the idea. Upload your photos and if we like 'em we'll hook you up with some gear.
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-lg.jpg) THE SOUND OF ROC TRIP
Words by Justin Roth / Photos by John Evans - Roc Trip Zillertal hasn’t yet started, and I find myself tagging along with the Petzl pros as they tour the four or five main areas containing Voi Ultimes (“Ultimate Routes”). In the seats in front of me are some of France’s strongest rock jocks — Tony Lamiche, Liv Sansoz, Mickaël Fuselier, Jerome Meyer, Daniel Du Lac.
 UNEARTHED - #26 - Ted Peterson
Ted was 8 and I was 40 when we started climbing. He learned from books, older climbers, mentors, and experience. And he shares his lessons with me, although he’s never known how much he’s taught me. From watching him work a problem, changing his tactics until he found success, I learned to persevere and adapt. Watching him set anchors taught me to see things for what they are, and predict what might happen.
 FINISH HOLD - #26
“Climbing far transcends some recreational activity that bides my time. It’s a lifestyle that unites my mind, body and soul in a beautiful, chaotic melody.” —Mark Mellette
 WORKSHOP - #26 - HANG TIME
Fingerboard Basics, with Ben Moon - Fingerboards (AKA hangboards) are simple training devices: long, flat pieces of plastic or wood covered with hand holds (crimps, pockets, slopers, pinches, jugs) and bolted above a door or to a freestanding support. To train, climbers hang from fingerboards, with the ultimate goal of increasing maximum finger strength.
 Deep Water and Sport Climbing in Vietnam
Photos by Tontonbebel, Ong Da, tOine, R. Burns, and Jean Branly courtesy of Dong Chi / vietclimb.com - It’s very simple: take a flight to Vietnam. From Hanoi, take a packed bus to Haiphong, and then a packed speedboat to Cat Ba island. Then pick your own boat, fill it with climbing shoes, Halida beers, chalk and sexy swimsuits. Open your eyes and enter the game. Sit start from a former USSR kayak (watch your balance), campus up to the lip of the roof, heel hook, stand up, and you’re already pumped! Now, you’re really in the game. By the way, you’ve been had, there is no exit. The more you climb, the higher you fall.
 Jeremy Nathan Photography
Living and working in Southern Ontario, Canada, Jeremy Nathan is a photographer whos work covers landscapes, rock climbing and the climbers of Canada. As the official photographer of the MEC Tour De Bloc, Jeremy uses his camera to convey a sense of strength, determination and the community of competition climbing with a signature style. Shown here are some photos from Canada's MEC Tour De Bloc series and some limestone from Ontario's Niagara Glen. Visit: jeremynathan.com to see more of his ongoing work.
 Triple Crown Bouldering Series - The Stone Fort - 2008
Photos by Brian Burnham and Leon Godwin / cirquevideo.com - The third and pinnacle event of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series concluded on December 5-6, on the world class sandstone boulders of The Stone Fort (aka Little Rock City) near Chattanooga, TN. Jimmy Webb secured the overall Men’s Open series win this year with victories at both HP40 and The Stone Fort. In the Women’s Open class the field was closely matched this year, but in the end, it was none other than the Queen of The Triple Crown — Miss Kate McGinnis — who claimed yet another victory. For more info visit: seclimbers.org, carolinaclimbers.org and triplecrownbouldering.com
 PLASTIC PARADISE: Hangar 18 - Riverside, CA
Our brand new Riverside facility is home to 12,000 square feet of insanely overhanging bouldering, 48 top ropes and lead routes, and some of the strongest climbers in California. With the help of gym builder extraordinaire Louie Anderson, our textured climbing terrain offers the simple and clean look of hold color-based setting.
 HEART OF STEEL Bouldering Comp
Be ready on January 24th, 2009 for The Boston Rock Gym’s HEART OF STEEL bouldering competition. It will be the raddest comp New England has ever seen with tons of amazing routes, tons of prizes, free schwag, live music, dancing, food, and much more.
 Rock Steady 4/Good vs Evil Climbing Competition
Saturday, January 31, 2009, at the Lakewood Link Recreation Center, in Lakewood, Colorado, come on out for the the Rock Steady 4/Good vs Evil Climbing Competition. Youth Competition 10am-1:30pm, ages 6-14, all levels; Adult Competition 1:45-5pm, ages 15 and up all levels; $20 pre-registration; $30 day-of-event. Visit www.lakewood.org/recreation for more information.
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We got nothing without you, and to get in the mag or up on the site, you're gonna have to get off your ass, and actually go DO SOMETHING.
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